You asked a pro—he answered. Citytv's gardening specialist Frank Ferragine has solutions for our readers' green-thumb conundrums. Have a question that you don't see below? Don't worry; Frank will take more questions each month. Submit yours today.
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Hi Frank, Tiny green worms are attacking my rose bushes, chewing all the leaves. From reading a few articles on the internet it seems that these worms multiply like crazy. I have been physically removing them but can't keep up. Is there some sort of insecticide that I can use to get rid of these pests?
BTW, the three rose bushes I have are not planted next to each other. Two are in the front on opposite sides of the driveway and one is at the back. So you see it is not like they are close enough for the worms to spread.
Thanks,
Veronica Fernandez
Mississauga, On.
Hi Veronica,
The most common caterpillar / worm that rapidly consume tomatoes is the Tomato Hornworm. This fleshy creature can grow to quite a size and will mature into a large moth. The best control measures include good old hand picking, high pressure wash (ie. spraying them off with water) and applications of Rotenone or BTK which is a non harmful biological control.
Good luck and happy worm picking.
Frankie
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Hi Frank,
Can you help me get rid of this red pest in my garden? It has completely destroyed my Asiatic Lillies and is starting on some of the other plants. I'm attaching a picture so you will be better able to help me.
Also my Lillies bloom in June and are gone by July, can they bloom longer? What is the best way to care for them once I get rid of the red pest?
Hope you can help!
Eva Leek,
Toronto, On.
Hi Eva,
The pests you are experiencing are the red lilly beetle. This hard shelled beetle is extremely difficult to control and most gardeners have turned to removing them by hand. Personally I've had great success controlling them organically with Neem Oil and in more severe cases I've used Rotenone. Note when using both Neem and Rotenone reapplication is necessary especially after a rain.
In terms of lengthening the bloom period of lillies you can't really change nature by forcing the blooms to last longer than their life cycle. You can however, improve the health of your lillies by removing spent flowers, watering deeply and infrequently throughout the garden season including after bloom period has expired, and improving the soil around them by amending your soil each fall with a good quality compost or triple mix.
Happy Gardening.
Frankie
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Good day Frank,
As a frequent reader of your great articles, I may have missed any previous ones you may have had on the topic of Grubs. Is there a safe and effective 'home ' remedy to extricate the buggers from my lawn, or is Poison the only effective solution? If so, when is a good time to launch my assault?
Errol Myrtezai
Milton, ON
Hi Errol,
The safest and most effective way to control grubs in your lawn is by using an organic control through the use of predatory nematodes. The nematodes are purchased in a concentrated sponge whereas the sponge is soaked in water then applied across the lawn. Note the lawn must be watered thoroughly before and after application. Application is best done when the grubs are small from early July into mid-August. For more info visit www.naturalinsectcontrol.com and look up Lawn Guardian.
Here's to being grub free!!!
Frankie
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Hi Frank,
I live in Mississauga and have noticed that the climate zone seems to be changing along with the weather. What sun loving, drought tolerant plants are best for this area?
Frances Brown
Mississauga, On.
Frances,
A great question and I'm pretty passionate about growing great gardens without abusing one of our most precious resources …WATER. My favorite hardy, sun loving, drought tolerant perennials with great interest factor include: Brilliant or Autum Joy Sedum, Purple Coneflower, Goldstrum Rudbekia, and Hens and Chicks and Sedum Stonecrop. For best success think about mulching to retain moisture, keep roots cool and reduce weeding.
For more info go to www.toronto.ca/watereff/tips/xeriscaping.
Thanks for using water wisely!!!
Frankie
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Dear Frank, I have a large patch of grass at the side of my house that has quickly become dry and yellow over the last month. The section is by one side of my house and our fence. It has rained a fair bit over the last week or so but this section remains very dry and very yellow even though the rest of the lawn is fairly green now. Is there something other than a lack of water that could cause such dryness? If not, I'm wondering if it is possible that my house and fence have been blocking all of the rain in this area, the section is about 8 feet by 4 feet. Thanks for your help; I always find your answers in the Epoch Times so educational!
Sincerely,
Kristy Jean
Barrie, On.
Hi Kristy,
A brown lawn is not a dead lawn but it does usually show signs of stress. For this patch, it can be due to a lack of moisture and even shading from your home and fence location. It could also be poor soil and too much drainage in the area (sand base) or insect damage by chinch bugs or grubs (if you can easily lift the sod this is usually an indication of chinch damage) and finally if this area is used a lot, you may be in need of aeration as the soil could be compacted, which in effect does not allow moisture to sink in.
In order to repair the lawn, first you need to find out what is causing the problem. After curing the problem I would suggest improving the soil and sod as this is a very small patch. The best time to repair the lawn is in late August to mid-October.
Good luck!!
Frankie
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Watch for Frank Ferragine's Q&A column in The Epoch Times on the first Thursday of every month, and catch Frank on "Frankie Flowers" a weekly edition of "CityOnline" airing every Friday at 12:30 p.m.ET on Citytv Toronto and CP24 for more great gardening tips.
Submit your questions today to AskFrank@epochtimes.com or by Fax: 416-298-1299 Attention: Frank Ferragine or mail to: Frank Ferragine c/o The Epoch Times, 103-201 Consumers Road, Toronto, Ontario M2J4G8
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