A dolphin without a tail? You wouldn't expect such a creature to live long. But then again, this is no ordinary dolphin. In fact, she's doing quite well. She's here at the Clearwater Marine Aquarium (CMA) in Clearwater, Florida, only half an hour from the Tampa airport.
Winter, as she is named, has appeared on various discovery and outdoor programs and has become quite a celebrity in her own right. Much credit, of course, has to go to the center where she is looked after, along with several other sea creatures that have been rescued. If they cannot be returned to the wild, the animals are kept at the center and are shown to the public during the day.
Winter
Winter was found in a crab trap in 2005 when she was just 3 months old and the line had tangled around her tail so badly that her tail had all but fallen off when she was rescued. The young mammal is the first dolphin in captivity to have survived such an experience.
Measures are now underway to get her used to wearing a prosthetic tail. She practices swimming with it for a few hours at a time, but since she'll spend the rest of her days at the Aquarium, she needn't worry about having to fend for herself again. A prosthetic tail? Now, that's definitely a first in the United States. (One was used on a dolphin in Japan whose injuries were less severe than Winter's.) Then again, boasting a number of firsts is not unusual in Clearwater.
Eco-tour
Take the eco-tour that the CMA runs out on the Bay—a first for many visitors. Watch as the captain throws his net into the ocean for three minutes. When he draws the net back in, what he has picked up could range from a variety of fish to urchins to a sea horse. (The sea horse we saw was a pregnant male, and the captain had to be careful where he threw it back in so it would be near its female companion because seahorses mate for life).
It's a great way to study what's in the ocean, and the captain does this for research purposes. The CMA is committed to the rescue, rehabilitation, and release of injured and stranded marine life. All "captures" are logged and released back into the ocean at the end of the research period. Afterward, be sure to head for the dolphin presentation, but keep in mind that these are dolphins "in training." It's not Marine World, so expect that the mammals won't do everything perfectly. Still, they're pretty good by any standard. These dolphins were not kept just for show. They are creatures that can't be released into the wild because they're not well enough or no longer know how to survive on their own. Other animals that have been kept in the center include a dolphin with a sunburned back, otters, pelicans, and several sea turtles. One great way to see the animals up close and personal is by becoming a trainer for the day and experiencing first hand what it's like to work with these graceful creatures.
When it comes to the subject of firsts, did you know the area holds first place for the best beach in the continental United States? It's not surprising that Dr. Beach (Stephen P. Leatherman, Ph.D.) has found both the expansive miles of powder-white sand (there are 28 miles of them in the area, to be exact) and water quality to be the best on the mainland, and this beach ranks number two overall in the whole of the United States (a beach on Maui holds the number one position). More than 650 public beaches are assessed, so there's plenty of competition for the top few spots.
Conde Nast Traveler readers agree with the good doctor and have named Clearwater "The Best City Beach on the Gulf of Mexico." While the soft sand sifts through your toes, you're sure to agree with both of them.
Little Toot
If you've never seen dolphins jumping out of the ocean, then this could be your first opportunity. Dolphin sighting is guaranteed with the Little Toot dolphin encounter. The boat takes you past some of the richest homes in the area. Tom Cruise has a home here that will be pointed out, as does Sylvester Stallone's mother.
On the way back, the boat speeds up to create a vibrant foaming wake. This attracts dolphins that cavort and seem to jump out of the water with glee. This playtime is a very impressive sight so be sure to have your camera with you! Between 8 and 12 dolphins outperform each other with which one can jump the highest, which can swim the fastest or even turn over one full revolution. It's hard to know if the dolphins watching are more impressed than the humans watching. Amazing!
The Mangroves
Any boat excursion will take you past outcrops of mangroves, which are protected in Florida. The huge green plants flourish in the water and provide first-class hiding spots for the aquatic life, including alligators. Don't worry—they're not likely to bother you.
Heritage Village
In this area of firsts, what about the first homes to be built? Heritage Village is the place to discover this. There are 28 structures, dating as far back as the mid-19th century, and they include a school, a church railroad depot, and a beach store. The McMullen-Coachman Log Cabin is the oldest structure in the county, and there's also the regal looking 1907, 13-room Victorian House of Seven Gables. The 1939 beach cottage that now houses the gift shop is the first one you will see on your way in—well worth a visit.
Botanic Gardens
From the Heritage Village, you can walk to the Botanic Gardens, where nature continues to delight visitors. ("Clearwater," by the way, comes from the Native American Indian word "Pocotopaug," and the area was named for the abundant fresh springs that once ran into the bay). There's a beautiful wedding garden worth visiting, whether nuptials are on your current agenda or not. Many couples do tie the knot here. The 182-acre gardens feature Florida native plants and exotic tropicals in a kaleidoscope of color and lush beauty.
Island Havens
If your first choice is to go walking, then great walks can be found at the barrier islands of Honeymoon Island and Caladesi Island State Parks. The latter beach has been ranked the Number Two Best Beach in the continental United States by Dr. Beach. Having first- and second-place beaches in the continental United States is quite a feat—another Clearwater first. The islands were originally joined together and were known at that time as Hog Island but were separated during the hurricane of 1921. One of the "new" islands got its more romantic name after a developer built dozens of palm-thatched bungalows for honeymooners. Today the bungalows are gone, but the parks are still excellent for hiking, birding, canoeing, and kayaking and, of course, for exploring those magnificent, uncrowded beaches. Honeymoon Island is a stop-over for many migratory birds, and it's one of the first choices for osprey looking for nesting sites on the Gulf Coast of Florida. Nature trails can also be found at Moccasin Lake Nature Park, a 51-acre preserve with rescued and rehabilitated birds, and Booker Creek Preserve, home to reptiles, birds, and mammals listed as protected. Both sites offer animal and bird sightings and an escape from noisier wildlife—the human kind.
Billion Dollar Beach
Humans are certainly busy in Clearwater—with construction. But it's a small price to pay knowing that Billion Dollar Beach, as it has come to be known, is being given a facelift. (This is a first since the resort town began back in the 1950s.) Small mom and pop motels are being replaced by elegant, classy, upscale hotels. Development is due to be completed in 2009, and this upscale beach will then make Clearwater a first-class resort area. Save yourself the stress of driving, though, and leave the car at the hotel. Take the Jolly Trolley instead, a San Francisco-style trolley car, for only $1.25.
Turtles and Hotels?
For an excellent place to stay, check out the Sheraton Sand Key Resort, which is a great kicking-off place for all the above activities. In 2004 the hotel was awarded the AAA Four Diamond Award. Only 3 percent of all hotels in the United States have this distinction.
Anyone who works at the hotel will tell you that the Sheraton Sand Key beaches are the first choice of the Loggerhead sea turtles when they come to select their breeding ground. The hotel takes this responsibility seriously and, in collaboration with the CMA, has helped ensure the safety of these newborn reptiles.
Each year thousands of the babies hatch on Clearwater's beaches and, thanks to the hotel and local residents turning down their outside lights, the tiny hatchlings are able to reach the ocean safely. Their instinct is to follow the light of the moon to reach the Gulf of Mexico. (They can travel the wrong way if street or house lights pull them in the opposite direction.) From this simple beginning, they begin their long journey to Africa, only to return years later to the same beach to lay their own eggs.
Endless sun, a mild, year-round climate, world-famous beaches, and a host of nature-based attractions are all here, tempting you to succumb to their magic. No wonder Clearwater Beach is the first choice when it comes to vacationing in Florida.
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