NEW YORK—A plaque on the wall in the Chinese restaurant Noodles 36 reads, "Cheap Eats 2006, 8th Place." The shining award is a testament to the winning strategy that has kept the small establishment on West 36th Street in Manhattan open for almost a decade. But a new ban on trans fat oil passed by the New York City Department of Health last week poses a serious problem for Noodles 36 owner Henry Foong.
"Our profits are really low already. We will have to raise our prices, and we will lose customers," said Foong in an interview, referring to the more expensive oils he will be forced to buy.
Although not taking effect until July 2007, and not banning all trans fat oils until July 2008, the ban—the first of its kind in the United States—is already shaking up the restaurant and fast food community in New York City and the nation.
Artificial trans fat is made when hydrogen is added to vegetable oil, giving the oil a longer shelf life and giving better texture to some foods. Trans fat can be found in everything from French fries to baked goods to salad dressing, and everywhere from McDonald's to the local diner to Chinese takeout. Medical research, however, has solidly linked trans fat to increased risk of heart disease, stroke, and death.
Still, the National Restaurant Association has opposed the ban, saying it will be too costly and that restaurants should be allowed to continue voluntary efforts to eliminate trans fat. The association has threatened to sue, according to a Reuters report.
Foong says substitute oils will inevitably change the taste of all his dishes, and threaten his client base.
"[The health department] really gives you a headache. They don't care about taste, they don't care whether your business grows or dies, it's ridiculous," said Foong.
While huge fast food chains like McDonald's, Wendy's, and Kentucky Fried Chicken are making efforts to cut trans fat oils from their menus, research suggests that alternatives to trans fat oils may not be any healthier.
Last week, New York City's Department of Health also voted unanimously to require restaurants to make calorie information publicly available as of March 1, 2007, posting it on menus and menu boards, where consumers can see it when they order. Foong says this is another headache since he just redesigned and printed new menus that he will now have to redo.
Making the Best
Farook Khan bought Jerry's Diner five years ago and revived it into a well-organized, clean, and cozy family business on Bay Street in Staten Island, serving about 100 customers a day. A few months ago, Khan received a notice from the City of New York recommending that he omit trans fat from his menu.
Khan followed the notice recommendations, and now deep fries his chicken wings and French fries in corn or vegetable oil. It was a good idea for Khan, who is ahead of the game and no longer has to worry about the ban. Khan says he doesn't mind the switch, since his most well-known dish is his home fries cooked in olive oil—already trans fat free.
"People love it, they come from 10 miles away for my home fries" said Khan in an interview.
George Diamantakis bought Unicorn Diner five years ago. The 26-year-old business on Victory Boulevard in Staten Island is a typical Greek style diner open long hours, serving about 1,000 people daily.
For deep frying, Diamantak prefers to use beef fat, which is already trans fat free. However, cakes and pastries baked on Unicorn's premises use shortening that contain trans fat because it tastes better.
Diamantakis said he plans on calling up his suppliers, like Crisco, to see what he can use instead. He will give samples to his baker to choose a substitute that will hopefully not compromise the taste.
"When the government starts regulating what the people want to eat, that's not good, but if, in fact, people are going to eat healthier, it's a good thing," said Diamantakis.
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