I’ve always enjoyed gazing at world maps and globes, especially globes, because you can give them a swing and stop their rotation with an almighty finger, daydreaming about your future destinations. Like Lake Titicaca.

Okay... I’m going! I’m young, I don’t like school, and money, well...I have a little. I only have to convince a few friends to go with me, lose a few friends by leaving my apartment, and I’m on my way to mystical and majestic land of Peru.

My first taste of Peru was rather bitter when some Lima hoodlums trying to stop our taxicab from the airport to the hotel threw a few rocks at us. We held our breath for a moment, but later it proved rather arduous to let go of this unfortunate first impression. And cars rolling on red and stopping on green only reinforced our sense of insecurity.

The next day, we went strolling about the rich Miraflores neighborhood, which has nothing to do with Peru with its luxury hotels and McDonald’s, and even though we felt more at ease, it was not the Peru we wanted to see. Lima is, after all, really a crazy city.

And so we fled—traumatized by our attempt to experience modern Peruvian civilization. The Peru we were yearning for was far away from prostitution and crime, from poverty and unhealthy luxury; our Peru was in the mountains—mountains that take your breath away with both their beauty and their height, many of them standing above 6000 meters. The mountains are where the pulse of ancient peoples have been beating for thousands of years. And there we were, in Huaraz, in the heart of the Cordilera Blanca, the Andes’ highest mountain range, after a night bus ride.

We had aimed high—a two-week trek in the mountains, but my friends’ stomachs had other plans. I had gambled and refused to take any shots before leaving, and my friends played the safety card by getting all of those vaccines, and yet I was fine and they were grumbling in pain. We finally went forward, but lost half of our group of four along the tortuous trails and steep climbs. But how wonderful for those who could strive ahead, meeting hoards of cattle roaming freely and unwatched in the green valleys between the immaculate peaks. We felt truly free, apart from our 40 pound backpacks, our aching legs, and the lack of oxygen. This Peru we could endure.

It’s important to understand that Peru is a land of intense contrasts. The coast is mostly deserts, wastelands and fishing towns. To the east is the legendary Andes mountain range, and farther east is the beginning of the untamed jungle. I did try make a brief incursion into these thick forested and humid territories, but I soon realized that the white man doesn’t belong in the jungle! The climate was unbearable, but I really enjoyed shovelling infinite amounts of mud to clear the jungle mountain road that was erased by a landslide. I was still a funny gringo in the eyes of the natives, but for myself, I felt a sense of solidarity that only manifests when everyone spontaneously puts the shoulder to the wheel for the greater good, without any second thoughts.

Peru has so much wealth, in its people, nature and cultural heritage. During my trip, I also had the opportunity to spend many days in Cuzco, the ancient capital of the Incan Empire. The flood of tourists and the quantity of businesses destined to serve them was definitively overwhelming at first, but after a few days, I felt at peace. Cuzco has many ancient temples in its surroundings, and has many beautiful colonial buildings. It is also the base of many expeditions that go to the mythic and mystic Machu Picchu, a city in the mountains built around 1465 A.D. It is the most well-known tourist attraction in all of South America. So when I tell people I went to Peru, I’m sure to be asked, “So, how was Machu Picchu?” Well, I didn’t go, and it’s the only regrettable thing about my adventures in Peru. The money I had was too little for a $70 US day-trip.

In general, Peru is not expensive. The food is good and there is a lot of variety, even for vegetarians who can find little restaurants here and there. Shelter is adequate with various facilities that can accommodate every budget. The only thing that could be improved is land transportation. If you take a night bus between the mountain towns of Huancayo and Ayacucho, prepare to suffer!

So that’s about it—Go visit Peru! It is still an El Dorado for tourists.