Sparkling Reds? Why Not?
I often wonder why so many of life's beauties are overlooked. Sometimes people need to be dragged kicking and screaming to an obvious conclusion. It took years for people to accept Rieslings and screw cap wine bottles. Slowly but surely, consumers are being turned to and falling in love with sparkling red wine.
It seems logical to like a sparkling red if you already appreciate and enjoy Champagne.
The hard part in accepting sparkling reds is that people already associate white bubbly with "special occasions". To make matters worse, the sparkling wines are never viewed as appropriate for matching with food. Add to these obstacles, a sparkling wine with color and you get a confused consumer.
For as long as sparkling white has been around, so have the reds. Italians are known for their abundant grape selection, boasting more than 2,000. Neopolitans, the most free spirited of all Italians, are known for having a sparkling wine called Gragnano with Pizza. Habitants of Parma, Bologna, and nearby areas love to have Lambrusco with salty, cured meats. In Piedmont, the industrial peoples of the foggy region toast Brachetto D'Acqui, a sweet sparkling red.
Starting with the most interesting, Gragnano is a sparkling red from the town of the same name. Known specifically as the place where the best pasta is made, the town has in recent years been exporting their sparkling red to American markets. And Americans are drinking it non-stop. Made primarily from the red Piedirosso grape, Cantine Federiciane makes a beautiful Gragnano 2007 with notes of red berry fruits and a slight fizz. Retailing at about $17, this wine is a steal and once you have it with Pizza, you will know why Neopolitans have it with theirs.
Lambrusco is mostly known as a sweet, fizzy wine. Little by little, Americans are being introduced to its dry version. Medici Ermete Solo Reggiano 2007 is a stunningly pretty, sparkling red with blackberry hints. You may notice flavors reminiscent of balsamic vinegar. That's because true Balsamic vinegar is made with the same Lambrusco grape. This wine pairs beautifully with chunks of Parmigiano, Salami, Prosciutto, Mortadella, and Tortellini in brodo. For about $15, it's definitely worth a try.
For centuries in Piedmont, the locals have been enjoying Brachetto D'Acqui, a low alcohol, slightly sweet and effervescent red. Marenco Pineto Brachetto D'Acqui 2007 retails for about $20 and boasts hints of raspberry, cherries, and strawberries and is perfect to sip at anytime.
I have yet to meet a consumer who has not fallen in love with sparkling reds once he/she tries them. These wines are no brainers for parties, tapas, and even dinners.
Gianluca Rottura is the owner of In Vino Veritas, a wine store on Mahattan's Upper East Side and author of Wine Made Easy.
